Greenspiration | Sustainable Designers to watch at Copenhagen Fashion Week
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The Scandinavian fashion scene has been world-renowned for its much-loved labels and forward-thinking design. From eco-friendly business policies being non-negotiable to the importance of collaboration, Copenhagen has cemented its status as the capital of sustainable fashion.
Developed in 2019, the Copenhagen Fashion Week guidelines cover 18 minimum standards with six focus areas on sustainability, including design processes, material choices, and working conditions. And in this edition of Greenspiration, we highlight a few key brands and shows with an eco-edge to know from.
(di)vision - SS23
©(di)vision
(di)vision is a multi-disciplinary brand a design studio founded by the siblings Nanna & Simon Wick. As a multi-disciplinary design studio, (di)vision works in multiple forms of sustainable fashion design and production, mainly in reconstructing, upcycling, cut and sew production, and creative sourcing. It is founded on the principles of changing how clothes are currently created and rethinking how to create clothes for the future.
©(di)vision
Though making use of military surplus, the SS23 collection is made for lovers, not haters! Garments made out of deadstock fashion can look shiny and new, even though they are made out of old material. The Wicks worked with a supplier that takes unsold jeans back from big brands and reworks them. In that process, waste is created, and from those leftovers, (di)vision can make patched denim. “We’re basically upcycling already upcycled stuff.” A win-win situation.
Ganni - JOYRIDE SS23
©Ganni
Ganni, is a Copenhagen-based brand owned and run by husband-and-wife team Creative Director Ditte Reffstrup and Founder Nicolaj Reffstrup. The brand currently has 100% traceability on Stage 1-4 of their supply chain and has published all Stage 1 and 2 suppliers with the Open Apparel Registry to drive transparency.
©Ganni
For the brand's latest collection JOYRIDE SS23, 92% of the production volume comes from responsible styles, meaning at least 50% of the composition is certified recycled, lower-impact, or organic. The collection also highlights included matching denim separates and sheer mesh tops and dresses, as well as 66 North-branded outdoor clothing made out of recycled nylon and polyester.
Gestuz - HEAT HAZE SS23
©Gestuz
Gestuz was founded in 2008 by Sanne Sehested, who wanted to create a brand inspired by her own vintage wardrobe and the kind of energy and attitude she believed fashion should give the wearer. The brand focuses on sustainability not only when it comes to materials but also when it comes to production and the well-being of workers. At least 80% of their collections are made from more sustainable materials, and they are always looking for ways to improve.
©Gestuz
'Heat Haze' leaned on a utilitarian type of sexy, with tiny tops and cargo trousers, mini-mini skirts and skin-bearing ensembles. Also, the tight dresses and mini hemlines are contrasted by voluminous trousers and sophisticated suits.
Jade Cropper - SS23
©Jade Cropper
With an emphasis on versatility, inventive detailing, imperfection, and deconstructed design, Jade Cropper wants to challenge traditions, reinvent, and encourage multifunction garments. Adopting several sustainable design practices by only waste fabrics, deadstock, recycled and circular material with inventive constructions and techniques to make the pieces timeless and versatile.
©Jade Cropper
Jade Cropper has “grown tired of perfection.” For spring/summer 2023, Jade Cropper turned to “photographic studies of decaying leaves and flowers.” Crinkled edges and ashy tones give way to a sort of morbid beauty. There are still clingy, strappy numbers. Asymmetrical tops with unexpected cut-outs.
OpéraSPORT. - Edition 12
©OpéraSPORT
OpéraSPORT was established in Copenhagen by Stephanie Gundelach, consultant and stylist, and Awa Malina Stelter. It aims to mainly use recycled textile fibres from industrial waste, such as recycled silk, recycled cashmere, recycled wool, and recycled polyester, but also incorporates organic cotton into their editions.
©OpéraSPORT
For their new collection, Edition 12, presented amongst the majestic marble figurines of the city's Royal Cast Collection – a playful setting amidst copies of the world's most iconic sculptures. Tie-front cut-out knitted dresses, chain belts, and sheer puff sleeve blouses with leather detailing brought an added feeling of toughness to the other softer designs, while the grey metallic quilted suit, ideal for that post-conference boogie, was a definite standout. "We really want to pay a tribute to the female body in all ages, shapes, and sizes.”
Ræburn - SS23
©Ræburn
Ræburn is a collaborative, creative fashion studio where daily design meets responsible production. The design of Ræburn has been informed by 3 main principles, ‘Ræmade, Ræduced, and Ræcycled.’ The Ræmade ethos in particular pioneers the reworking of surplus fabrics and garments to create innovative and functional pieces.
©Ræburn
The SS23 collection draws inspiration from the SR-71 Blackbird, a strategic reconnaissance aircraft (colloquially, a spy plane) that still holds the world record it set in 1976 as the fastest air-breathing manned aircraft.The steely grey and optic white line-up exerts a futuristic military mood, that could easily stray too far into the voids of costume or conceptual, but instead remains firmly wearable.
Schnayderman’s - The Future is behind you
©Schnayderman's
Schnayderman’s inspired designs recycle human collaborative values such as kindness, truth, and inclusion to dress the Weird and the Wonderful of the world. Schnayderman's goal is that every meter of fabric that has been woven is utilized for a garment and that every garment finds a home within the three coming seasons at the latest.
©Schnayderman's
Titled "The Future is behind you", the brand's SS23 collection is inspired by alternative concepts of time. Embracing the circular notion of time, the collection feeds on the zeitgeist of today whilst looking at the past to create a fresh look for the future. The texture of SS23 uses fringed indigo linens, cotton nylon ripstops, high twist poplins, crinkled viscose fabrics and washed denim.
The Garment - SS23
©The Garment
The Garment was founded in 2020 by Sophia Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen. This Copenhagen-based brand has inspired the singular aesthetic and minimalist approach to design. The Garment care for quality, sustainable natural sources, and recycled materials. As a member of the 1% for the planet community, The Garment is committed each year to contributing 1% of its annual revenue to non-profit organizations that are dedicated to protecting ecosystems and wildlife.
©The Garment
In the latest collection, The Garment tempers its signature tomboy tailoring with soft lace and crochet. Charlotte Eskildsen and Sophia Roe design with the intention to build wardrobes that are “timeless and personal" for one to “restyle throughout many seasons”. “Sustainability, for me, is also keeping your clothes,” Roe says, and this season’s line-up is certainly full of keepers.
The Royal Danish Academy - New Landscape for Change
©The Royal Danish Academy
As the first cohort to graduate from The Royal Danish Academy’s radical Master’s degree program in Fashion, Clothing, and Textiles - ‘New Landscape for Change’- these fresh raw talents will showcase new visionary and energetic ways of translating fashion into a responsible manner. These new points of view are centered around an idealistic mindset that rebels against the concept of mass production and embraces longevity and the true love of clothes.
©The Royal Danish Academy
The focus of the class of 2022 is to showcase contemporary visions and to push the collective understanding of responsible design by bringing re-modernized takes on traditional crafts, inclusive silhouettes and new perceptions of discarded fabrics.