How can deadstock reuse set a new model for fashion?
As the fashion industry grapples with its environmental footprint, a notable transformation is taking shape—one driven by a commitment to sustainable practices. Among the many innovations, the creative reuse of deadstock fabrics is emerging as a beacon of change, offering a sustainable solution to the excess materials that have long plagued the industry.
In this edition of Greenspiration, let's delve into the intricacies of deadstock fabrics, explore the global challenges they pose, and showcase insightful case studies of brands adopting circular business models to harness the untapped potential of deadstock materials.
What is deadstock fabric?
Deadstock fabric refers to unused and unsold materials, usually textiles, that were produced for a particular purpose but never utilized or sold. In the context of the fashion industry, deadstock fabric can include rolls of cloth, bolts of fabric, or other textile materials that, for various reasons, were not incorporated into finished products or sold to consumers.
Traditionally consigned to landfills, deadstock fabrics are experiencing a renaissance as sustainability-focused brands and independent designers seize the opportunity to rescue and repurpose these materials for new, eco-conscious collections. This approach not only reduces environmental impact but also allows for the creation of unique and limited-edition pieces with existing resources.
The Reality Now
The fashion industry operates on fast-paced trends and seasonal cycles. As consumer preferences evolve rapidly, brands often overproduce to meet anticipated demand. However, this strategy can result in a surplus of unsold inventory, leading to financial losses for brands. The magnitude of the global deadstock fabric issue is substantial, with an estimated value of a staggering US$ 288 billion, according to Luxury Tribute.
The disposal of deadstock fabric is also a pressing environmental concern. Traditionally, these materials find their way to landfills or are subjected to incineration, contributing to pollution and resource wastage. The carbon footprint associated with the production and disposal of unused materials is a significant factor in the fashion industry's overall environmental impact.
The ethical dimensions of deadstock fabric relate to the social responsibility of fashion brands. Destruction of unsold inventory, as exemplified by Burberry's case in 2018, raises ethical questions about sustainability and corporate responsibility. Such practices not only contribute to environmental degradation but also reflect negatively on a brand's commitment to ethical business practices.
The impending approval of European Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) laws is indicative of the growing regulatory scrutiny on how the fashion industry manages its excess inventory. Brands are under increasing pressure to adopt sustainable practices, including finding responsible solutions for dealing with deadstock fabric.
Case Studies
As a consequence of COVID-19 piling up stocks and the associated slowdown in consumption, the industry is trying to find solutions to this problem.
LVMH - Nona Source
Launched in 2021, Nona Source is the first online resale platform for “re-sourcing” exceptional materials from the Group’s Fashion and Leather Goods Maisons.
Designed by experts from LVMH via its DARE intrapreneurial program (Disrupt, Act, Risk to be an Entrepreneur), Nona Source provides creatives with access to high-end circular materials from many top luxury Maisons including Stella Mc Cartney, Fendi, Marc Jacobs, Givenchy, Bulgari, Kenzo, and Dior, while supporting LVMH’s environmental strategy by rethinking sourcing and supporting the circular economy.
Earlier this year in February, Nona Source announced to strengthen its ties with young designers to promote its circular model, appointing Cecilie Bahnsen, Karoline Vitto, Nensi Dojaka, and Victor Weinsanto as ambassadors. With the aim of raising awareness towards Nona Source, the collective called "Mindful Creatives" invites the designers to use the fabrics selected by the site to create low-impact looks within their collections.
Apart from emerging designers, Nona Source has also collaborated with fashion students at Central Saint Martins. Students used the Nona Source concept as a starting point to create new ways to design circular fashion systems, presenting creative ideas for the future of regenerative fashion.
Hermès Petit H
Launched in 2011, Hermès' Petit h is the art of transforming discarded materials into unique, one-of-a-kind creations, breathing new life into every fragment.
The concept is brilliantly simple: even the smallest remnants of leather, the excess silk from other projects, or overlooked scraps are repurposed. This initiative not only reduces waste but also showcases the creative potential hidden within discarded materials.
Petit h initially started as a traveling pop-up collection, bringing together the diverse talents within Hermès under one roof. Artisans from various ateliers collaborate, creating unique and innovative pieces that go beyond traditional leather goods. They give new meaning to remnants, turning them into charming accessories, shoelaces, and imaginative designs.
Ronald van der Kemp
Step into Ronald Van der Kemp's Amsterdam atelier, and you'll be immersed in a world of vibrant colors and unique textures. Yet, what truly distinguishes him is his unwavering dedication to sustainable fashion. His craftsmanship revolves around reclaimed materials, including vintage silks and discarded python skins.
Van der Kemp's journey is a challenge to the fashion industry's darker side, notorious for exploitation and environmental harm. His philosophy is elegantly simple: sustainability means utilizing what's already at hand. After an illustrious career in luxury fashion, he witnessed the industry's descent into uninspired collections and wasteful practices. Van der Kemp's work thrives on imperfection, rejecting the pursuit of digital perfection, celebrating limited materials, and uniting with artisans to craft exclusive pieces.
Bank & Vogue
The parent company of the vintage resale store Beyond Retro, Bank & Vogue, is a secondhand clothing trader that handles 300 million individual clothing items across three continents annually, pioneering large-scale upcycling.
Bank & Vogue collaborated with Converse to transfer 7,000 Hawaiian shirts into Chuck Taylor shoe uppers, marking yet another successful venture between the secondhand clothing trader and their long-standing partner, Gina Tricot. Beginning with avant-garde design and development practices, B&V embarked on this collaboration, starting from procuring clothing to analyzing materials for potential reuse, and culminating in the disinfection and cutting of components in their factory located in India. With a production capacity of up to 16,000 product components daily by their cutting team in India, Bank & Vogue exhibits the capability to transform as many as 100,000 finished items into parts, showcasing tremendous production potential in both products and projects.
Besides the collaboration with Converse, Beyond Retro also launched Beyond Remade, which is entirely made from discarded clothes. Designed to be practical and beautiful in equal measure, Beyond Remade aims to inspire responsible consumption among fashion lovers.
The adoption of deadstock fabrics marks a revolutionary turn in the fashion industry's sustainability approach, nurturing circular business models and alliances that reshape responsible practices. However, despite their benefits for smaller brands, deadstock fabrics come with specific limitations. For instance, their limited availability poses challenges in restocking and meeting growing demand, especially for emerging brands or extensive productions. Thus, identifying an appropriate circular model becomes pivotal in responsibly reutilizing deadstock fabrics.
